In a Melbourne food hall sit a couple with six cups of coffee in front of them. It is Kay Fotheringham and her husband Greg Hind coming to the crunch after “thoroughly confusing” themselves after visiting every coffee place in Melbourne to select a brand for Retro Café.

She went with Vittoria and has never regretted it, the very good decaff however, comes from Tascaffe. People seldom change their coffee preferences, Kay says. “With our regulars, I start getting their coffee as soon as I see them putting their money in the meter. We don’t always know their names, but all the staff will know who Mr Flat White with Cold Milk on the Side is.”

Tom Otte also went with Vittoria, but when every café on the strip was using it, he looked for a point of difference. For a while he got Jacob’s, then Lavazza directly from Europe, but the long journey was reducing the flavour. Now Zum uses Mio, which is roasted in Melbourne and delivered once a week.

Not long ago, a Melbourne barista on holiday walked in. Luke Bresnan was smitten with Tasmania and wanted to stay. Zum “grabbed him straight away” and now Luke trains all the coffee staff.

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