David Forrest is about to get out from behind a desk and back into the office. That is “the best office in the world”, the racks of oysters spread out in Barilla Bay, right under the Hobart Airport flight path. Of course at some times “you’re being swished around by cold waves” and starting time is an hour different every day, at low tide.
“But there is nothing wrong with that,” says David. “It’s a different world out there, that’s why some fishermen don’t like to come in.”
Since the Barilla Bay restaurant and shop opened in 2004, David has spent more time on shore, and the busyness culminated with a three-day Oyster Riot in October. But now a couple of years “on the farm” is looking like a rest, and as David and his partner Shantel are expecting their first child this December, more personal time is high on the agenda.
Shantel has worked at Barilla Bay for many years, so like David, the new baby will be oyster-aware from childhood. David and his sisters Sharyn and Angela helped their parents out from the time the farm was established 26 years ago. Sharyn still works in the business, mainly running the retail side, but Angela has “escaped” and lives in Switzerland.
Oyster farming is an intensive business. From the time the small oysters arrive from the hatchery, to the final time they are lifted from the water 18 months later, each of the 250,000 dozen oysters a year that come from the farm is handled as many as seven times.
Between 5% and 10% of this production is exported, 40% goes to the mainland and 50% is sold in Tasmania. In future, it’s likely all the oysters will be triploids, that is sterile, which will mean the hiccup in supply as the oysters spawn and are out of condition will no longer have to be worked around, and also the oysters will not colonise the coastline.
The inaugural Oyster Riot was a huge success in terms of the numbers attracted to special dinners and those out for a day of feasting and comparing the products of 12 oyster growers from all parts of the state.
The prize for the best Regional Oyster Dish went to oyster farmers Julia Fisher of Freycinet Marine Farm and Cassandra Melrose for Melshell, both in Great Oyster Bay. Their dish was oysters rolled in nori, then steamed, served with blanched samphire, the seaside plant, crushed walnut on top and horseradish cream.
The event raised $7,500 for Headway Support Services, which helps the 2,500 Tasmanians a year who receive an acquired brain injury. But for David, the biggest success of the event was exemplified by a man who “did not eat oysters” but who bought one at the festival for his son, who then refused to eat it. Not wanting to waste it, the father downed the mollusc. The following weekend, he was back at Barilla Bay to buy two dozen oysters, in their shells, and a knife with which to open them.
The event will be back next year, with more oyster growers and a golf tournament raising funds for Headway. For details see www.tasoysterriot.com.au.
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