In the zone, in the bend
Steve and Monique Lubiana’s patch of ground was assiduously chosen. The 18 hectares they have planted in vines at Granton is in a crook of the River Derwent. “We have water on three sides,” he said. “It makes it virtually frost-free.” The October frost that damaged so many wine grapes and stonefruit did not chill the north-facing slopes of the Lubiana vineyard at all.
“We chose this location because of its excellent potential to grow grapes,” said Steve. The soil is mostly a gravely loam over either clay or gravel. The gravel absorbs heat from the sun and the poor soil decreases the vigour of the vines - making them put more energy into fruit rather than leaves, which, in turn, reduces shading of the fruit. And the fruit ripens reliably every year, even in cool years.
But before deciding on this particular part of Tasmania, the then South Australian couple had to decide between this state and Margaret River in Western Australia. Steve and Monique used their honeymoon to scope out this state as a contender for a home base.
Steve said what clinched it was the flavours of Tasmania. “The meat, the fruit, the vegetables had such intensity of flavour,” he said. “I could not see those flavours in the produce of Margaret River.”
Also, he wanted to make sparkling wines, and it was a no-brainer that this was the better place for that, “although it took the rest of the industry another 10 years to find out”.
Steve represents the fifth generation of his family to be involved in winemaking. His grandfather was the first Lubiana to set up in Australia, starting a winery in the Riverland in 1955, which his farther Mario took over, and Steve took over from him until the move to Tasmania in 1990. They planted the first chardonnay and pinot noir in 1991, and the first vintage was 1993, but this was made from grapes they bought. Now, of course, all the wines are made on the premises, by Steve from grapes he grew on the property himself.
This year, the vintage and non-vintage Brut he produces each year will be joined by a new sparkler, Prestige. This elegant wine has been 10 years on lees. “It’s in the Australian style, I’m not trying to emulate the French,” said Steve. And it will cost about $140 for each of the 100 dozen bottles - making it the most expensive Australian sparkling wine.
Already well appreciated is the Vintage Brut, made with either 50/50 or 60/40 pinot noir and chardonnay - “It’s still a work in progress”. The wine captures the character of the particular vintage, and then rests on lees for six years before it is disgorged.
The object of the NV Brut (non-vintage) is to produce a consistent wine year after year, so that the drinker knows what to expect - a richer, fuller sparkling wine than the Vintage Brut. To achieve this, some wine of each vintage is reserved, and as many as three base wines are mixed to make the wine each year.
Tasting notes
Stefano Lubiana Vintage Brut 1999
First disgorged October 2005. 1999 was cool and mild, which resulted in an elegant, complex style of fizz. It is showing plenty of enticing nutty characteristics with a clean fresh finish making it perfectlysuited to an array of seafood dishes (particularly oysters natural or sashimi.) After harvest it was whole bunch pressed with slightly cooler fermentation than the non-vintage, in order to retain more fruit flavour. To create a clean fresh style it has had no oak treatment. All Stefano Lubiana sparkling wines were recently disgorged, ensuring the wine is at its peak on release. The bouquet includes cashew, green apple, toasty with a complex, fresh palate that’s rich and full.
Stefano Lubiana NV Brut
The Stefano Lubiana NV Brut is a 95:5 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, made with traditional methode champenoise techniques, including oxidative juice handling and barrel maturation using a range of reserve wines. All degorging and final treatment is carried out by hand. The NV Brut stays on lees for a minimum of 18 months. In Jetstar Inflight Magazine, April/May 2006, Naren Young noted that it also has a “vigorous mousse, which is wine speak for lots of lovely bubbles.”
Stefano Lubiana Primavera Pinot Noir 2005
This is consistently the vineyard’s numberone selling wine and to top it off 2005 was one of the best, if not the best, Tasmanian pinot noir vintages ever. A mixture of Stefano Lubiana’s unique terroir, handcrafted winemaking techniques and a perfect growing season have united to make a first-rate wine. The 2005 vintage displays subtle oak characteristics due to judicious use of quality French barriques. It has excellent varietal flavour, optimum balance and overall good structure - typical of the Primavera style. On the palate there is berry fruit, spiciness, savoury, excellent structure, subtle oak and a firm dry finish.
Stefano Lubiana Sauvignon Blanc 2005
This is an exotic, tropical-fruit driven style Sauvignon Blanc with a fresh, dry finish … perfect for a picnic rug under the summer stars. Stefano Lubiana’s latitude of 43 degrees south on unique, gently undulating, gravelly slopes and the mixture of an exceptional growing season have helped fashion this exotic style. The 2005 vintage displays strong varietal intensity. Winemaking has been much the same as in the past, with cold ferments of fairly clear juice using multiple yeasts. On the
palate there are fresh exotic fruits and soft citrus. It has a beautiful balance, a subtle sweetness and a dry finish.
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